By Nigel Wright features@algarveresident.com
Nigel Wright and his wife Sue moved to Portugal five years ago and live in the countryside near Paderne with their three dogs. They lived and worked in the Far and Middle East during the 1980s and 90s and although now retired, still continue to travel as much possible and enjoy new cultural experiences. His other interests include tennis, gardening, photography and petanque.
Songkran – The Thai New Year
Ignoring the hotel’s advice, we ventured into the normally quiet village street to be greeted by a deluge of water from hoses, buckets and gigantic water pistols bigger than AK 47’s! We were absolutely soaked, but this was Songkran, an important festival in the Thai calendar, that celebrates the beginning of the solar year in mid-April.
 Early morning on Koh Hong Island Beach. |
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Houses are cleaned, people wear new clothes, Buddha images are bathed and food is offered to the monks. The popular water-throwing custom is thought to derive from a mythical rain making ceremony to encourage the annual monsoon to begin in May.
We were richly entertained during our morning coffee as no one escaped the well-practised aim of the village kids – pedestrians, and occupants of cars, buses and motorbikes were all drenched.
That evening, our hotel hosted a wonderful Songkran dinner with dozens of tasty local dishes served by waitresses dressed for the occasion in stunning Thai Royal Princess gowns. After traditional dancing by local students, the guests were invited to send individual paper lanterns into the night sky.
 The Songkran Princesses, the lovely hotel waitresses. |
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Powered by small candles, they floated up and away, each one carrying personal wishes for the coming year. It was a special moment to end a memorable day in the enchanting province of Krabi.
Krabi’s natural beauty^
The southern province of Krabi is blessed with beautiful white sand beaches, jungle-clad cliffs and magnificent soaring limestone pinnacles. Stretching north to Phang Nga Bay and around towards Phuket island, this unlikely but spectacular topography is one of the natural wonders of the world.
 Peaceful Klong Muang Beach. |
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Where the limestone outcrops occur at sea, amazing islands have been formed with hidden treasures of deep caves containing huge stalactites. Some have open-top sea chambers like doughnuts in their centre – creating a tropical fairyland that beckons for exploration by boat or kayak.
Krabi town is a small but bustling service centre for the region, situated on the Krabi River close to the sea. Nearby mangrove swamps teem with wildlife. It is a great shopping centre with colourful early morning and evening markets offering all types of local produce and interesting souvenirs.
 Over development on Phi Phi Islands. |
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Magical islands
Trips to explore the many magical islands are organised by hotels or arranged directly in Krabi town. There are many superb options, some of which visit four or more islands. We have snorkelled in crystal clear waters, fed the brilliantly coloured fish on offshore reefs, and sat on perfect beaches with white sand finer than talcum powder.
We’ve admired the amazing limestone caves and watched the locals climb precarious bamboo ladders to harvest swallows’ nests from the roof – ingredients for birds’ nest soup. Our personal favourite is Koh Hong. Hong is the Thai word for ‘room’ and this island has one hidden in its centre, where the ceiling of a giant chamber collapsed long ago. A narrow entrance from the sea leads to its amazing scenic interior.
 Krabi sunset. |
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The island has gorgeous beaches, but in the jungle behind, there are fishing boats tossed and smashed amongst the trees – a grim reminder of the 2004 tsunami that caused havoc in this region. Our tip for island exploration is ‘go early’.
The tours are very popular, but if you arrange to leave at dawn, the seas are flat calm and you will have over two hours with the islands to yourself before other tourists arrive.
A journey to the famous Phi Phi islands is on everybody’s wish list. The islands were once the jewels in Krabi’s crown, with limestone cliffs 500m high, waters of a deep cobalt blue and beaches of breathtaking tropical beauty.
They are well worth a visit, but don’t expect to be alone! In the rush for tourist bucks, the local authorities have allowed over-development and hundreds of boats arrive every day from Krabi and Phuket. Tragically, the tsunami swamped the main residential area of Phi Phi Don, the largest island, and 4,000 people were killed. It is a shame that the opportunity to rebuild and develop more sensitively has been wasted.
Phra Nang Peninsula
This wonderful peninsula is one of the most awe-inspiring landscapes on earth and is easily accessed by boat from the main tourist hub at Ao Nang.
It is shrouded by mystery and legend and forms the epicentre of the most popular stretch of Krabi’s mainland coast. Sandy stretches at Railay on the East and West side of the peninsula are popular but can be overcrowded.
The real gem is Phra Nang beach itself, surrounded by towering limestone cliffs; it has been rated as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. After arriving by boat, we paddled through the waves and soft white sand to Phra Nang’s cave, just above the high water mark.
It is a spiritual place of immense importance to the local people. Both Buddhists and Muslims light candles and offer food and prayers to this spirit deity and there was a strong smell of incense as we approached the shrine. Phra Nang was believed to have been an Indian Princess who died in a shipwreck nearby and whose spirit took up permanent residence in the small cavern.
She is said to hold enormous spiritual power over the whole peninsula and during the centuries the site has become associated with fertility, virility and good luck.
This has led to a cult of linga offerings, and on entering the cave, we were greeted with the sight of dozens of giant carved wooden phalluses surrounding the central image! We felt a real aura of mystery in its interior as Thai people worshipped at the feet of Phra Nang. We were told later, from a reliable source, that the great tsunami failed to affect this beach and the cave remained completely dry. Maybe Phra Nang does indeed have the power!
Krabi’s accommodation options
We have visited Krabi four times during our journeys around SE Asia and never tire of its many charms and the warmth of its gentle smiling people.
As well as the beaches and islands, there are opportunities to explore the jungles and mountains of the interior. Ao Nang offers a range of accommodation from budget to luxury, but is in danger of succumbing to some of the less desirable aspects of western tourism.
We prefer to stay a little further north on quieter Klong Muang beach. We have also relaxed on laid-back Koh Lanta, Krabi’s southern island. Largely undeveloped, it is a favourite haunt of budget travellers.
Krabi has a modern airport with regular low cost flights from Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Direct flights can sometimes be found from Europe, but most tourists choose to arrive in Thailand through Bangkok as there are so many low cost long-haul flight options to the capital city.
The best time to holiday in Krabi is in the warm, dry season, between December and March.
