Rolha Wine Bar is located in the heart of Porches
The first Algarve Wine Society (AWS) event at Rolha Wine Bar in Porches was held a year ago and proved so successful that it was an easy choice to return this January. Rolha’s home is a traditional Portuguese building in the centre of the village, so to accommodate the 60 members attending, the event was held over two lunchtimes on January 12 and 13.
Rolha’s owner António Teixeira is passionate about Portuguese wines and, in particular, those made by the smaller, organic producers including Quinta do Romeu, based near Mirandela in the Douro. Founded in 1874 and organic since 1995, the estate has remained in the same family and produces olive oil and cork as well as wines from Touriga Nacional and a range of other varietals, well adapted to the steep slopes and schist soils of the region.
Apparently, at Romeu nothing is flat – not the landscape, the climate, the people or the flavours! João Menéres, great-grandson of the founder, was spending a few days in the Algarve, presenting his wines not only to the AWS but also to a group of local sommeliers and restaurateurs. He explained that production methods have evolved gently over time but retained the best of the past, including the shallow ‘lagares’ used for fermentation, allowing for gentler working with the grapes.
After a welcome glass of the exuberant Quinta do Romeu Rosé, expressing notes of red fruit and floral hints, members took their seats and dipped into the Quinta’s full-flavoured olive oil, followed by ‘muxama’ paired with a Colheita Branco. Rolha specialises in small plates using Portuguese produce, and the next dish was ‘requeijão’ with almonds and honey accompanied by the delicate yet complex Branco Especial.
Conversation flowed around the farmhouse-style table as members compared the Moinho do Gato red with the Colheita Tinto and then two vintages of the Quinta do Romeu Reserva Tinto 2019 and the characterful 2014, alongside chef Marcelo Pedroso’s menu of ‘alheira’ from Romeu, lamb ‘chanfana’ and finishing with Azores cheese and ‘torta de laranja’.
By ALISON WEST