An American in Portugal 

A New England couple finds a home in the Algarve 

Ouch! The story you are about to read began with a hard fall on an icy sidewalk. New England’s long cold winters were always tedious, but now my wife and I found them treacherous. So, after the painful slip, we longed to escape the ice and snow. We began searching to find a place for a warm vacation. For many Americans, Florida is the default. But we wanted something more … interesting.

Camaraderie in Évora square
Camaraderie in Évora square

We turned our gaze eastward, across the Atlantic Ocean, and there was little Portugal, and particularly the Algarve. It emanated a warm, colorful, and captivating spirit. We looked online and found a guesthouse that was stylish in a rustic, natural way; and we booked two weeks in January.

Celebrators of traditional marches in Portimão
Celebrators of traditional marches in Portimão

When we arrived, it was sunny, warm, green, and beautiful. As we explored the area, we were welcomed by friendly people and we felt ensconced in a wonderful place. We were dazzled by the lifestyle, landscapes, food, culture, history, and architecture. Best of all was an overall feeling of freedom and excitement.

Classic Algarve chimney, showing Moorish design influences today
Classic Algarve chimney, showing Moorish design influences today

That was seven years ago, and my wife and I have never looked back. I guess it was love at first sight. Every day we spent on vacation in the Algarve felt like magic. Then we ventured north to Lisbon, Porto, Coimbra, Braga, Viseu, and many other cities of Portugal. We became dazzled and captivated by the whole country. We started to wonder if it would be possible to live here.

Cloaked students at University of Coimbra were popularized by Harry Potter
Cloaked students at University of Coimbra were popularized by Harry Potter

Along the way, we met expats who had immigrated here from a variety of countries, and they were quite happy. So, we decided that it could be realistic for us. Be warned: It isn’t easy! There are bureaucratic hurdles such as visas, residence permits, fiscal numbers, bank accounts, and driver’s licenses. Is it financially feasible? Questions about healthcare, housing, culture, and language.

Exquisite tilework of São Bento Railway Station, Porto
Exquisite tilework of São Bento Railway Station, Porto

Moving to a new country is complicated. It’s certainly not for everybody. It’s daunting, but in the end, your answer must come from the gut. We decided to go for it.

Iconic limestone formations, Praia da Rocha, Portimão
Iconic limestone formations, Praia da Rocha, Portimão

Three years ago, after a whole lot of organizing, simplifying, planning, and redefining, my wife and I moved to the Algarve. Then began our period of adjustment. We didn’t know anybody when we got here, and it’s hard when you are suddenly away from your community of friends and family. It reminded me of freshman year of college, being in a new place, and trying to figure out who’s who and what’s what.

My neighbor Manuel de Simone, with his favorite Carob Tree
My neighbor Manuel de Simone, with his favorite Carob Tree

Now, thankfully, we feel settled in. The village we moved to is friendly, and we joined clubs for charity work, gardening, archaeology, and music. We are taking Portuguese language classes, which is mostly comical, and our progress is slow. But there are so many English-speaking Portuguese people, as well as English speakers from everywhere else, that we do well enough with English and a dash of Portuguese.

Remodelado trams, Lisbon
Remodelado trams, Lisbon

I have to say, the “Portugal magic” we first felt seven years ago keeps getting more magical. It’s hard to describe how it feels to live here, because there are so many intangibles. Here are some of the things I like about living in Portugal:

Statue of Henry the Navigator, Porto
Statue of Henry the Navigator, Porto
  1. The pace of life is slower, and life is more simple. For an American from the Northeast Corridor, this takes some getting used to! People have long conversations in the grocery line, and everybody waits patiently. You don’t grab a quick coffee to go; you sit in the cafe and sip from a real coffee cup. Neighbors talk in the street and traffic pauses. Multi-generational families sit together in the cool afternoon and enjoy the moments in each other’s company. Many people are chatting and laughing in public as the days pass.
Storks thrive harmoniously throughout Portugal_
Storks thrive harmoniously throughout Portugal_
  1. Portugal is a young democracy, only 50 years old, after centuries of monarchy, and decades of dictatorship. There is a sense of pride that young people really appreciate their freedoms. A plethora of festivals and public social events are everywhere. Many businesses are local and family-owned; not as many chain stores, franchise restaurants, and big corporations. It is a small country, and the size of things is smaller and more human-scale. I like the individuality and personality imbued in everything here.
The magnificent Convento de Christo, Tomar
The magnificent Convento de Christo, Tomar

 

  1. For a small country, there are endless fascinating things to discover and learn about. You can pick almost any place on the map and find something unique and beautiful. The non-touristy areas are less developed and commercialized. Recent and ancient history is alive everywhere. The Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and Christians have left their marks on the culture.
Tomar convent courtyard where the Knights Templar once walked
Tomar convent courtyard where the Knights Templar once walked

 

  1. Portugal is a leading eco-tourist destination. It’s also the leader in renewable energy. There is a lot of consciousness about the environment. Portugal’s largest industries were once fishing and cork. Now the biggest is tourism. Conservation and the protection of natural resources is happening all around us. Summer is the peak tourist season for the Algarve, which is counterintuitive for an American, who would expect winter to be the high season for a warm place. The tourists are a bit annoying on the coast, but they don’t usually come inland (where I live). The fall, winter, and spring are heavenly.
Traditional Loulé door
Traditional Loulé door

 

  1. There aren’t traffic jams. There are fewer cars and the cars are smaller. Driving is generally easier and less stressful. This may seem like a petty issue to some of you, but those of us who have endured big urban traffic for years will likely agree with the importance of it.
Vintage Algarve road signs, Barranco do Velho
Vintage Algarve road signs, Barranco do Velho

 

  1. It’s easy to make friends. Expats like me are all in the same boat. We moved away from our former life, family, and friends. Socially, we’re starting from scratch, so we tend to be more friendly and outgoing. I used to have bouts of homesickness, but they have gradually subsided. There are lots of clubs and groups to join with people who want to be part of a community. One thing leads to another, and pretty soon you find that you belong.

 

Vintage Schweppes tile mural in Boliqueime
Vintage Schweppes tile mural in Boliqueime

My editor asked me to write what I like about Portugal, and also what I don’t like about Portugal. Well, I don’t like to complain. For me, the pros outweigh the cons. My photographs in this article are an expression of the joy I feel for Portugal.

I’m going to end by quoting a saying that I once heard. It goes, “Some of us like the merry-go-round, and some like the roller-coaster.” I prefer a roller-coaster of new things and a sense of adventure in life, rather than repeating a merry-go-round of the same experiences. After a lifetime in the USA, my adventure is Portugal.

Text and Photos by ERIC ROTH

|| features@portugalresident.com
Eric Roth is a lifelong photojournalist who has recently emigrated from Boston, USA to the Algarve. He loves nature and wildlife. 926 742 687 | ericrothphoto@gmail.com

Eric Roth
Eric Roth

Eric Roth is a lifelong photojournalist from Boston, USA, and now living in the Algarve. He loves to cover culture, arts, and life in Portugal. ericrothphoto@gmail.com

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