What would you answer if I would ask how you cook your oats? My guess is that the answer would entail making porridge or adding them to various bakes, like cookies and crumbles.
Looking back at the culinary history of oats, it becomes clear that it all indeed began with porridge. Firstly, the evidence suggests that ground oats were consumed as early as 7000BC. Ancient Greeks were avid porridge lovers too, having named cereal after the Goddess of Agriculture, Ceres. Vikings used to prepare a dish called grautr, a porridge made with either barley or oats and enjoyed with a dollop of butter or honey.
From there oats travelled southwards to Ireland and Scotland where they received a very warm welcome. This hardy grain won over local hearts for its ability to withstand harsh growing conditions and temperamental climates. The popularity of oats for breakfast was so immense in these two countries that the world adopted certain naming conventions with regards to oats, namely designating steel cut oats as Irish oats and ground oat groats as Scottish oats.
The story, however, does not end there. Known for its harsh winters too, oats have become a much beloved nourishment in Switzerland, particularly since doctor Maximilian Bircher-Benne popularised muesli, a breakfast bowl of oat flakes in combination with nuts, seeds and fresh or dried fruits left overnight in water or milk.
Indeed, oats can be truly celebrated as a global breakfast phenomenon. However, looking at their culinary applications beyond the breakfast bowl points at one country in particular, Scotland. It seems that here oats have truly fulfilled their culinary potential.
To begin with, oats have been served in Scotland for centuries as a thick drink made from fermented oats called sowans. It starts with fermenting oats in a bit of water for 24-48 hours (only oats that require cooking are up for this task). When drained, this produces a light, nutty and slightly acidic ‘oat juice’. The juice can be then thickened with starches or other grains (rye) to give the drink more body, resulting in a texture somewhere between a smoothie and a custard. It is served sweet topped with fruits, honey or treacle, or savoury, topped with fried onions, like my grandmother used to do, known to her under the local Easter European name kisel.
Continuing with the Scottish menu of oat preparations, there are also those that hold the status of national classics. On the dessert front there is cranachan, the king of Scottish desserts made with oats, fresh cheese, cream, raspberries and whiskey. On the other side there is haggis, the king of Scottish savouries made of lamb offal. There is no surprise that oats also make a Christmas appearance here. A Scottish skirlie is an excellent alternative to a classical Christmas Day stuffing. The dish uses pinhead oats that are cooked and then bound with sautéed onions, leeks, celery, and a variety to herbs (rosemary, sage, thyme) with the help of fat, such as beef dripping or butter. For their delicate, soft and crumbly textures as well as creamy and nutty flavours, oats are perfect for this dish and equally, for other meat preparations, such as meatballs or meatloafs.
Drawing inspiration beyond Scotland, oats can be also cooked as a risotto style dish. It might require a dollop or two more of the risotto liquid, but its ability to create viscosity makes it a perfect grain to use in place of risotto rice. It makes a heavenly plate paired with mushrooms, particularly the wild ones such as chanterelles or boletus. Last but not least, there is the dish that sits somewhere between porridge and risotto that shall be called here savoury porridge. Made with steel cut oats, it lends itself exceptionally well for a plethora of toppings. Be it breakfast, lunch or dinner, some of the exciting and much-loved variations by yours truly include:
- egg-caramelised onion-feta
- egg-mushrooms-scallions
- smoked mackerel/salmon-egg-spinach
- cheddar-spinach-egg
- egg-sriracha-avocado-cherry tomato
Eggs can be cooked any style or can be omitted altogether. A sprinkle of herbs is also very welcome here.
Be it a sweet, savoury or liquid, oats are an extremely versatile and nutritiously rich ingredient that, in my view, are worth a much more prominent spot in the pantry than a mere breakfast shelf.
By Dr. Irina Mikhailava
|| features@algarveresident.com
Dr. Irina Mikhailava, a chef and a good food champion, happily residing in the Algarve and eating all over the world with an appetite for learning, sharing and writing. Instagram: incompanyoffood
