Sponsored by: PDM TRAVEL
Regular readers will know that we are very enthusiastic about a great scheme from the Portuguese national rail company – CP Comboios de Portugal – designed to encourage the discovery of Portugal’s areas of outstanding beauty and heritage.
Rail travel offers a great way to explore the country. It’s a comfortable and easy way of getting from one city to the next. The itinerary suggested below is particularly well suited for train travel because it involves sampling one of Portugal’s finest products – Port wine!
The ups and downs of the Douro Valley mean that the train is the perfect means to explore the Port wine countryside. One of the best ways to discover the Douro vineyards is to backtrack through the Port wine route, leave Oporto and head upstream towards Pocinho.
 ‘The ups and downs of the Douro Valley mean that the train is the perfect means to explore the Port wine countryside’ |  |
The journey is around 180km and can be made in a day or over a leisurely weekend.
Great views
The first part of the journey is by the Inter-Regional train from Oporto – it will take about two hours to reach Régua. It is worthwhile starting your journey from São Bento (St Benedict) station and taking a look at the beautiful tiles in the concourse (a masterpiece by Jorge Colaço). Also admire the general design of the station, which is a classic example of iron architecture.
As far as the countryside you will see through the train windows, the view becomes more interesting once you have passed Marco de Canavezes, roughly one hour into the journey. This is where you begin the long descent to the edge of the River Douro
Wine terraces
First you go through the Juncal tunnel and then over the famous Pala viaduct. From here on, until reaching Régua, there is so much to see as the train rolls along right beside the water and the landscape begins to change with the appearance of the first wine terraces on the left bank (there is not much to be seen on the right bank because the hillside is too steep).
 ‘An unforgettable experience that let’s you see the farm houses and wine terraces’ | |
Once you have arrived at Régua, take a break for lunch to digest all the sights you have taken in and prepare for the rest of the journey. While you’re at the station, look out for the long, curved, black, wooden goods warehouse which is a fine example of industrial architecture and currently awaiting heritage classification.
For the next part of the journey, try heading up the Corgo valley. This means catching the train that runs between Régua and Vila Real up the Corgo line. The trip takes just under an hour but is an unforgettable experience that let’s you see the farm houses and wine terraces all along the right bank of this tributary of the Douro. The journey will also take you back through wine-making history. You will see the most modern farming techniques side-by-side with the clear signs of the phylloxera vine plague of the late 19th century, which left a trail of ‘dead-lands’ (mortórios) where the vines have never grown again.
Wine tasting
A second possibility would be to carry on up the Douro line towards Pocinho. On the stretch to Pinhão, you can see the vineyards and cellars on the south bank of the river. It is worthwhile getting off the train and taking a closer look at the glazed tiles or enjoying a stroll down to the riverside beach with its esplanades. The more dedicated wine lovers among you should head for some more Port wine tasting at the bar in the Vintage House hotel.
The journey carries on eastward and the train is often closed in on both sides by the dramatically narrow tracks, as happens near the Valeira dam and the São Salvador do Mundo viewpoint, but wines and vines will keep you company until you reach Pocinho.
After crossing over to the right bank of the Douro in Ferradosa, you will notice a surprising change in the landscape on the north bank, near Senhora da Ribeira, where orange groves and market-gardens stretch right down to the water. The Port wine vineyards are left behind but the vines remain in sight – used to produce table wines.
Finally, we say goodbye to the last of the wineries and the journey comes to an end in Pocinho, where the station is decorated with interesting locally produced tiles – the perfect place to relax, enjoy dinner and perhaps a bottle of the local wine? After all, you’re not driving!
If you’re feeling inspired to take the train, why not give PDM a call? They will organise train tickets and, of course, suggest and book hotels if you would like to stay in the beautiful Douro Valley for a few days. Enjoy!
