Monsaraz: dream village

Helga and I, along with a few family members, have just spent a marvellous long weekend in Monsaraz. It wasn’t our first time, and it certainly won’t be the last. The village’s beauty and wonderful hilltop location are addictive.

The hilltop walled village of Monsaraz, seen from the east (the Alqueva Lake) side. The castle and the Igreja Matriz are clearly visible, anchoring the walls.

Monsaraz is a very picturesque village of 800 people located on a height in the Alentejo, about a two-hour drive north of Loulé. It is one of the oldest villages in Portugal, designated a monument village in 2017, and known for its stunning views, authentic medieval charm, and historical significance. Monsaraz’s history dates back to prehistoric times, with evidence of human settlement in the area since the Neolithic period, and there are quite a few megalithic dolmens and menhirs near Monsaraz.

The Porta da Vila serves as the main entrance to the walled village. It dates from the 17th century. Above the arch, there is a memorial to the Immaculate Conception, installed by King João IV in 1646

Throughout its history, Monsaraz has been occupied by various civilizations, including the Romans, Visigoths, and Moors. However, it was during the Middle Ages that Monsaraz flourished, becoming an important stronghold for the Portuguese Crown after its recapture from the Moors by King Sancho II, assisted by Templar knights, in 1232. The village was donated by Sancho to the Templars after its recapture and played a crucial role in defending Portugal’s border with Spain.

A view over the roofs of Monsaraz, looking southeast towards the Alqueva.

There are only two streets in Monsaraz that run the length of the village. This is the main one. Wheeled vehicles are not allowed, except for loading/unloading, but there is plenty of parking just outside the walls.

In the 17^th and 18^th centuries, Monsaraz experienced a period of decline, as the strategic importance of its location diminished. However, its medieval charm and historical significance remained, attracting visitors interested in its rich heritage and breathtaking views.

This ATM, next to the Junta da Freguesia, is about the only concession Monsaraz makes to the 21st century.

Helga and Robbie Edwards toast Monsaraz with a lovely local vinho branco on the terrace of the Sahida restaurant.

Today, Monsaraz is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and panoramic vistas. Visitors can explore attractions such as the castle, a 13^th century medieval fortress and national monument that offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside, and the Manueline Renaissance 16^th century Church of Santa Maria da Lagoa.

In addition, the village overlooks the Alqueva Lake, the largest artificial lake in Europe, which was formed in 2002 by damming the Guadiana River. The lake makes Monsaraz a boating, fishing, swimming and water sports center.

The Porta da Cisterna and, beyond it, the Porta do Buraco, one of the four entrances to the village.

The village also hosts cultural events and festivals throughout the year, celebrating its heritage and showcasing local traditions. Monsaraz is known for its local crafts, particularly pottery, which has been produced in São Pedro do Corval, near the village, for centuries.

One of the many beautiful views from the village – this one looking east to the Alqueva Lake.

The 16th century Igreja Matriz, Nossa Senhora da Lagoa, which was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake and is currently being renovated. In front of the church, in the main square (Largo Nuno Álvares Pereira), is an 18th century marble pillory (pelourinho) where announcements were made and laws and punishments given.

Monsaraz may be a small village, but there are some outstanding boutique hotels (São Lourenço do Barrocal, Casa Pinto, Horta da Coutada, Casa Saramago, Vila Planície) and restaurants (Sahida, Taverna os Templários, Sem-Fim) in town or nearby. And we shouldn’t forget that there are a number of excellent wineries nearby – Esporão, Adega José de Sousa, Monte dos Perdigões, Ervideira and Herdade do Sobroso (to name just a few of my favorites) are all within a short drive from Monsaraz.

The main tower of the castle, called the Torre de São Gens do Xarez, or, more familiarly, Torre das Feiticeiras (Tower of Witches). Construction of the castle was started by King Alfonso III and eventually completed by his son Dinis I in the early 13th century. Entrance is free. The views from the tower are exceptional.

Overall, Monsaraz continues to captivate visitors with its blend of history, natural beauty, and cultural richness, making it a must-visit destination in the Alentejo. This wonderful place is so close to us in the Algarve that it would be a shame if you haven’t been there. Put Monsaraz on your bucket list!

A reminder that the Templar knights were active in the castle’s construction and defense.

The fertile Alentejano plains as seen from the castle

By Larry Hampton

Helga and I, along with a few family members, have just spent a marvellous long weekend in Monsaraz. It wasn’t our first time, and it certainly won’t be the last. The village’s beauty and wonderful hilltop location are addictive.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Monsaraz experienced a period of decline, as the strategic importance of its location diminished. However, its medieval charm and historical significance remained, attracting visitors interested in its rich heritage and breathtaking views.

The village also hosts cultural events and festivals throughout the year, celebrating its heritage and showcasing local traditions. Monsaraz is known for its local crafts, particularly pottery, which has been produced in São Pedro do Corval, near the village, for centuries.

In the 17^th and 18^th centuries, Monsaraz experienced a period of decline, as the strategic importance of its location diminished. However, its medieval charm and historical significance remained, attracting visitors interested in its rich heritage and breathtaking views.