New in at Apolónia are some very interesting wines from the Dão region. Código wines is a project headed up by winemaker Tiago Macena, who is not yet known as a superstar in the world of Portuguese wine, but that could soon change.
Last year, he successfully completed the final and most important stage of becoming a Master of Wine. Although the title has not yet been bestowed upon him, it should happen. There are just 414 Masters of Wine in the world, so for Tiago to join this elite group as Portugal’s first ever Master of Wine would elevate him to wine royalty.
In the meantime, he has embraced his own project, having worked as a consultant winemaker in the past for producers in the Dão and Setúbal regions.
Código wines is something of a mystery project, for apart from the grape varieties used in each wine, he gives up nothing about the techniques used in the vineyard or in the winery. All we know is that the winery has both used oak barrels and claypots for ageing, but there is (intentionally) no information on what he does with each different wine.
The labels, works of art in themselves, apparently contain secret messages, but nothing that I could decipher. Anyway, what we have here in the two reds available at Apolónia are very different wines, priced the same at €23.95.
Origem, with the black and gold label, is a traditional-style Dão red in the modern sense, an elegant medium to full-bodied red that has clearly spent some time in oak. Made from a typical Dão blend of Baga, Jaen, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional, the wine has complex notes of dark fruit and pepper spices on the nose, structured in the mouth with evident yet subtle tannins and a dry finish.
The blue, flowery label of Solstício suggests something lighter and fresher and this is exactly what we get. In terms of structure and style, think new world Pinot Noir, but this is an authentic Dão blend of Jaen and Tinta Pinheira, fresh and fruity on the nose. In the mouth, the wine is light to medium-bodied, delicate in texture and extremely drinkable. I’m keen to discover more wines from this mysterious producer.
By Patrick Stuart
patrick.stuart@open-media.net
