By: CHRIS GRAEME
ANYONE WHO tells you that three days is sufficient to explore the wonders of the Island of Madeira is sorely mistaken.
The green, semi-tropical island has so much on offer to see and experience that a week would hardly do it justice.
But a short three-day visit is enough to give you a taste of this luscious pearl in the Atlantic and leave you inspired enough to want to return for a second trip.
Although the language is the same, the similarities between Portugal and Madeira end there.
Not only is the climate warm and humid pretty much all year round, it has, like the Azores, its own system of microclimates which means you can experience sun, showers, fog and mist, or a combination of all four, in any one day.
A basic package trip to Madeira will cost you anything from 360 euros off-season to 800 euros in July or August depending on your hotel and flights.
 The volcanic grottos at São Vicente |
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On the first day, it is advisable to get your bearings by exploring the small but stunning city of Funchal with its 500 years of history and population of around 250,000 inhabitants.
One of the best things to do is to take the cable car (14 euros return) from the Bay of Funchal up to the Monte where you get a stunning view of the bay and harbour.
From there, it is worth exploring the green and verdant Berardo Foundation Oriental Botanical Gardens (10 euros) and visit the Our Lady of the Monte Church where the last Emperor of Austria, the Beatified Charles of Hapsburg is buried, which also features a statue outside it.
If you don’t fancy taking the cable car down, the bus will cost you two euros while the more adventurous can take an exhilarating wicker sledge ride down the hillside for between 20 to 37 euros per couple.
Down in the town, your appetite whetted, why not head for one of Funchal’s most romantic and enigmatic café restaurants The Golden Gate Café, the haunt of poets, writers and artists since 1841, including Ernest Hemmingway.
A high class elegant tea (17-50 euros) is not to miss at the famous Reids Hotel where the Empress Elizabeth (Sissi) of Austria, Winston Churchill and the Queen of Sweden have all stayed and admired the breathtaking views of the bay from the terrace.
 Inside one of the famous Madeira Wine Adegas in Funchal |
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Whale watching
Hiring a car for the day will get you around the coastal roads of the island from 26 euros per day per person – an exhausting but rewarding trip where the obligatory stops include the Câmara de Lobos fishing village and church, the Ribeira Brava and Calheta marinas and beach resorts, the amazing volcanic rock pools and stunning views at Porto Moniz, the ancient grottos at São Vicente (10 euros) and finally a replica of a traditional 19th century peasants community at Santana (10 euros).
On your third day, there are two suggestions: one maritime, the other inland. Either take a boat ride out into the bay on one of the tall-masted 19th century schooners (19 euros) or enjoy the Columbus experience on a replica of the 15th century ship Santa Maria (27.50 euros).
There is also a catamaran that takes you further out to spot the whales and dolphins that regularly come into Madeira’s waters. A three-hour return trip by ferry cruiser to neighbouring island Porto Santo for the day will set you back just over 70 euros.
Alternatively, you could hire a driver for 120 euros return to explore some of the many stunning belvedere viewing points from high up in the Madeira hills, taking you to Curral das Freiras – once a hideaway for Franciscan nuns – through parts of the semi-tropical prehistoric rain forest, or Laurissilva National Park, and on to Machico where João Zarco first laid claim to the island for the Portuguese in the late 15th century.
 The famous lava swimming pools at Porto Moniz |
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Delicious
The more sporting and adventurous could try their stamina at hiking up to the tallest volcanic peaks of Pico do Arieiro (1,862 metres) and Pico Ruivo, but take sturdy boots and equipment and go with a guide. Definitely not for those who suffer from vertigo!
A more leisurely suggestion would take you along the many picturesque irrigation system of waterways, or levadas, with the Levada do Risco leading to the Cascata do Risco Waterfall being one of the prettiest routes.
Lastly, but not least, there are several eating out tips on what to try while you’re in Madeira. Seafood is plentiful and good, as are bolo do caco (a kind of flat bread soaked with garlic), caldeirada (a fish stew with tomato and onion stock), peixe espada with bananas or mangos (grilled black scabbard fish) and castanhetas (small sardine-like fish served in garlic sauce).
Meat lovers should go for espetada (cubes of sirloin steak seasoned with salt and bay leaves on a spit) while poncho – a kind of liquor made with honey, lemon juice and cane sugar rum – are both a must.
