Last weekend, my wife and I treated ourselves to the most fabulous hotel we have ever stayed in. It is on the west coast of Portugal, an easy drive from the Algarve or from Lisbon, and it is called Vermelho.
In its first year, it is all the rage of the international fashion, design, and travel community. It is a 13-room artisan boutique hotel in the small, charming village of Melides. An utter dream palace, Vermelho is the brainchild of French fashion designer Christian Louboutin.
His elegant shoes are known for having red soles, hence the name Vermelho (“red” in Portuguese), and there are many red accents throughout the hotel, including the uniforms of the very friendly staff members.
Upon checking in, we were whisked to our gorgeous room with hand-painted floor, ceiling, cupboards, and furniture. On the table was a complimentary bowl of fresh fruit and a plate of chocolates. We immediately took to the helpful staff, and before long, we were chatting with João, Beatriz, José, and Pedro.
Not only did they laugh at my jokes, they happily helped me with my slowly improving Portuguese (I enjoy trying to learn Portuguese; it’s a beautiful language to listen to, if I could only understand it!).

To create this design paradise, Louboutin brought in an exciting group of super talented and original artists from Portugal, France, Italy, Spain, India, and Greece. I’ve never seen such attention to detail in a hotel. Every piece of furniture, fabric, door handle, lighting fixture, linen, dish, art and decoration, right down to the door stops, was beautiful.
Strolling about, I felt like a modern-day prince in his palace. Everywhere, from floor to ceiling, corner to corner; there is a sight to savor, and a detail to delight in, small and subtle, bold and daring. You might think this could be overwhelming, but somehow, it feels calm and comfortable amid all the visual excitement.

There is a feeling of the old world, but it has a freshness, with whimsical touches and a sense of fantasy. We were enthralled and transported. It’s exhilarating to live with such art and beauty, if but for just a few days.

Going off-season to any destination has many advantages, and this is no exception. The rates are greatly reduced, and it’s less crowded. You almost feel like you have the whole place to yourself. The staff has time to chat (and teach you a little Portuguese).
Christian Louboutin has a private home nearby, on the lagoon of Melides, a lovely natural area with birds and peaceful meadows and tidal inlets, leading out to a majestic beach.


This part of Portugal, which includes the villages of Melides and nearby Comporta, has discreetly become one of the most desirable tourist and expat destinations in Europe. Trendsetters are quietly flocking here to experience a mixture of authentic Portuguese style with a new aesthetic influence of relaxed and natural chic.
Alongside the traditional cafes and shops, with locals hanging out and chatting; you will walk past upscale restaurants, clothing boutiques, home shops, and art galleries. And of course, an occasional real estate office, listing properties with prices that are currently soaring beyond everyone’s imagination.
Portugal is a small country, but it’s a microcosm that is layered with so many elements. There is always something new around the corner, such as Vermelho; a place where avant-garde design coexists perfectly with the authentic simplicity of a quiet Portuguese village. How wonderful to live here!
By ERIC ROTH
|| features@portugalresident.com
Eric Roth is a lifelong photojournalist who has recently emigrated from Boston, USA to the Algarve. He loves nature and wildlife. 926 742 687 | ericrothphoto@gmail.com