This glamorous avant-garde hotel is in perfect harmony with rural Portugal

Last weekend, my wife and I treated ourselves to the most fabulous hotel we have ever stayed in. It is on the west coast of Portugal, an easy drive from the Algarve or from Lisbon, and it is called Vermelho.

In its first year, it is all the rage of the international fashion, design, and travel community. It is a 13-room artisan boutique hotel in the small, charming village of Melides. An utter dream palace, Vermelho is the brainchild of French fashion designer Christian Louboutin.

Vermelho terrace with bold ceramics by Giuseppe Ducrot
Vermelho terrace with bold ceramics by Giuseppe Ducrot

His elegant shoes are known for having red soles, hence the name Vermelho (“red” in Portuguese), and there are many red accents throughout the hotel, including the uniforms of the very friendly staff members.

 

Upon checking in, we were whisked to our gorgeous room with hand-painted floor, ceiling, cupboards, and furniture. On the table was a complimentary bowl of fresh fruit and a plate of chocolates. We immediately took to the helpful staff, and before long, we were chatting with João, Beatriz, José, and Pedro.

Vermelho entry
Vermelho entry
Not only did they laugh at my jokes, they happily helped me with my slowly improving Portuguese (I enjoy trying to learn Portuguese; it’s a beautiful language to listen to, if I could only understand it!).
Vermelho landing with abstract mollusk chandelier
Vermelho landing with abstract mollusk chandelier

To create this design paradise, Louboutin brought in an exciting group of super talented and original artists from Portugal, France, Italy, Spain, India, and Greece. I’ve never seen such attention to detail in a hotel. Every piece of furniture, fabric, door handle, lighting fixture, linen, dish, art and decoration, right down to the door stops, was beautiful.

Vermelho guestroom with Spanish brass doors
Vermelho guestroom with Spanish brass doors
Friendly staff at the reception desk. Wall art by Klove Studio, New Delhi, India
Friendly staff at the reception desk. Wall art by Klove Studio, New Delhi, India
Strolling about, I felt like a modern-day prince in his palace. Everywhere, from floor to ceiling, corner to corner; there is a sight to savor, and a detail to delight in, small and subtle, bold and daring. You might think this could be overwhelming, but somehow, it feels calm and comfortable amid all the visual excitement.
Vermelho guestroom with handpainted details
Vermelho guestroom with handpainted details

There is a feeling of the old world, but it has a freshness, with whimsical touches and a sense of fantasy. We were enthralled and transported. It’s exhilarating to live with such art and beauty, if but for just a few days.

Vermelho guestroom with four post bed
Vermelho guestroom with four post bed

Going off-season to any destination has many advantages, and this is no exception. The rates are greatly reduced, and it’s less crowded. You almost feel like you have the whole place to yourself. The staff has time to chat (and teach you a little Portuguese).

Vermelho facade with Giuseppe Ducrot ceramic window borders
Vermelho facade with Giuseppe Ducrot ceramic window borders
Christian Louboutin has a private home nearby, on the lagoon of Melides, a lovely natural area with birds and peaceful meadows and tidal inlets, leading out to a majestic beach.
Vermelho bar by Villarreal Workshop, Seville
Vermelho bar by Villarreal Workshop, Seville
Eric Roth photographs Vermelho, photo by Lucille Wymer
Eric Roth photographs Vermelho, photo by Lucille Wymer

This part of Portugal, which includes the villages of Melides and nearby Comporta, has discreetly become one of the most desirable tourist and expat destinations in Europe. Trendsetters are quietly flocking here to experience a mixture of authentic Portuguese style with a new aesthetic influence of relaxed and natural chic.

Vermelho balcony
Vermelho balcony

Alongside the traditional cafes and shops, with locals hanging out and chatting; you will walk past upscale restaurants, clothing boutiques, home shops, and art galleries. And of course, an occasional real estate office, listing properties with prices that are currently soaring beyond everyone’s imagination.

Lounge, Vermelho
Lounge, Vermelho

Portugal is a small country, but it’s a microcosm that is layered with so many elements. There is always something new around the corner, such as Vermelho; a place where avant-garde design coexists perfectly with the authentic simplicity of a quiet Portuguese village. How wonderful to live here!

Giuseppe Ducrot ceramic sculpure at Vermelho
Giuseppe Ducrot ceramic sculpure at Vermelho

By ERIC ROTH

|| features@portugalresident.com
Eric Roth is a lifelong photojournalist who has recently emigrated from Boston, USA to the Algarve. He loves nature and wildlife. 926 742 687 | ericrothphoto@gmail.com

 

Eric Roth
Eric Roth

Eric Roth is a lifelong photojournalist from Boston, USA, and now living in the Algarve. He loves to cover culture, arts, and life in Portugal. ericrothphoto@gmail.com

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