Controversy over the worth of a gastronomic Guide Michelin ‘star’ in Portugal deepened this week after it was reported that celebrated Almancil chef Henrique Leis has handed his back, after 19 years.
Leis’ official reason was to ‘regain freedom’.
But the truth appears to be more rooted in the failings of what is universally recognised as a top-drawer accolade.
“Only four or five of the critics are serious, with good criteria”, Leis told tabloid reporters – adding that “the majority” are led by fashion and lobbies, and essentially “have no knowledge” of what is really good cuisine.
This is the first time “in the history of Portuguese restaurants that a chef has returned his Michelin star”, wrote Público over the weekend – but Leis says the decision was always on the cards, as far as he was concerned.
“This decision comes from many years of thinking”, he told the paper.
Leis’ decision may be unheard of in Portugal, but French chef Sebastien Bras did much the same thing a little over a year ago, again citing stress and the pressure of having to constantly satisfy the guide’s judges.
“Today, when a chef does something new, within a month everyone is doing it…” Leis explained. “It’s scary, the speed with which we fall into the abyss”, he added – interpreted as another slight at the efforts required to maintain stars attributed by the renowned gastronomic guide.
A Brazilian who arrived in Portugal 24 years ago, Leis now wants to enjoy “freedom” in his kitchen, and the time to give his daughters and partners in it the space to develop their own brand of gastronomy.
